We may without fear or hesitation promise the visitor the greatest enjoyment from this excursion, whether the charms of a rich and highly cultivated country, the view of ruins “graceful in decay,” or the works of art be most accordant with his taste.
Having taken the Holt-road for three miles, we turn off to Gresham, and proceed to Barningham-town, or Barningham Wintes, a village consisting of about five hundred acres, belonging to John Thurston Mott, Esq. On entering the grounds, we are instantly struck with the beautiful landscape that surrounds us, and with the richness of the prospect; but our admiration is complete as we reach the picturesque ruins of the church which stands in the park. Anything more lovely we have seldom if ever beheld. The ruins, which are extremely fine, are covered with luxuriant ivy; but there is no appearance of decay here to offend the eye, or to pain the heart, nor even to raise a sigh of regret for the past. The chancel has been put into perfect repair, and most appropriately and liberally fitted up for divine service. All around is calm, holy, happy. True taste, true devotional feeling, pervades throughout. There the dead seem to “sleep sweetly” not in the sadness of death, but in the tranquillity of repose,—not in the gloom that oppresses the heart, but in the peace that speaks of hope. No straggling foot disturbs the green winding-sheet of the slumberers below, the light foot of the bird alone, which hath found there a place to build her nest, presses it, and the robin in privileged security chants from the spreading boughs that wave nigh a requiem over the departed,—not a weed is allowed to obtrude a leaf: the rank grass sighs not there, nor does the thistle shake there its downy head to the wind. The house of God, and “the house appointed for all living,” have been equally respected, and a striking proof afforded how much the beauty of holiness may be enhanced by the spirit of cheerfulness. We are utter strangers to Mr. Mott, we know only his name, (though in so saying, we may “argue ourselves unknown,”) that he is patron of the living of Barningham, and that he inhabits the venerable mansion, which is near the church; but what we have seen and do know commands our esteem, and we gratefully give it.
Two miles beyond Barningham, is Wolterton-hall, the seat of the Right Honourable the Earl of Orford, and Baron Walpole. [55] Respecting this handsome mansion we will quote the words of a former tourist:—
“Wolterton was purchased by Lord Walpole soon after his marriage. At that time, it consisted of a small mansion, with landed property of not more than five hundred pounds per annum, which he afterwards considerably increased by purchase. The house being burnt down during his embassy, he built the present seat in 1736, which is styled in Walpole’s Anecdotes, one of the best houses of the size in England. It was built after the designs of Ripley. The date is given in the following inscription placed over the door of the eastern entrance:
HORATIUS WALPOLE
HAS ÆDES
A. S. MDCCXXVII.
INCHOAVIT.
A. S. MDCCXLI.
PERFECIT.
“Like most of Ripley’s houses, Wolterton is built with a basement story, and offices beneath, and consequently appears much less considerable in size and extent of accommodation than in fact it is. It is nearly a square pile, three sides of which have views on the park and pleasure-grounds, and to the fourth, eastward, is appended a large quadrangle, comprising the spacious kitchen offices, towards the north; a handsome domestic chapel to the south, (this has been removed, and a new one is now building to the east,) and communicating by an arched gatehouse to the east, with the stables and the kitchen gardens. The building is of brick, with chimnies, cornices, and dressings of the doors and windows in Portland stone, and is of so solid and durable a character, that the lapse of nearly a century has produced no apparent ill effect on its condition or appearance. The great hall on the north side was approached by a lofty flight of stone steps, which, as ill suited to the climate and habits of England, were removed by the late earl, and a commodious entrance, twenty feet square, made in the basement story beneath. The great staircase which fills the centre of the building, and is lighted from above, is in a rich and massive style of architecture, and extending down to the basement, serves as the approach from the present entrance to the principal apartments. Towards the south, in the centre of the house, is the library, pannelled in mahogany, thirty-two feet by twenty-four, containing a large collection of the ancient editions in various departments of literature, with much that is valuable of a more modern date. On the east side is the old dining-room, on the west the old drawing-room, each twenty-five feet by twenty, which have been, till lately, the customary living-rooms of the family.”
On the principal floor in the centre of the north front is the great hall, twenty-nine feet by twenty-four feet six inches, and twenty feet high. On the west side are portraits of Horatio, first Lord Walpole, of Wolterton; of his son Horatio, second Lord Walpole, of Wolterton, and fourth Lord Walpole, in whom the title of Earl of Orford was revived in 1806, and of Horatio, late and sixth earl of his family, his son and heir in parliamentary robes by Lane. Opposite, a large hunting subject (temporarily removed) by Wootton, with portraits of Sir Robert Walpole, with Sir Charles Turner, and General Churchill and of his favourite hunters and hounds. In the front of the door, Sir Robert Churchill in uniform, and Mr. Charles Churchill his son, who, by Lady Mary his wife, youngest daughter of Sir Robert Walpole, was maternal grandfather of Horatio, present and seventh Earl of Orford. Disposed in different parts of the hall, are some beautiful vases in antique marbles and alabasters, as also objects of sculpture, among which is a bust in bronze of Napoleon Buonaparte, from the collection of Monsieur Denon, and highly appreciated by him. A Cupid and Psyche, of natural size, in statuary, by Finilli, a work of great beauty and perfection; also a Venus, the size of life, by the same artist, in the manner of the Venus de Medicis.
On the left of the hall is the private family suit of the earl and countess, containing some interesting cabinet pictures. A very fine portrait in full length, of Oliver Cromwell, in armour, was formerly in this room, but is now removed to a bed-room. On the right, is the principal dining room, with a fine portrait over the fire-place, of Caroline, Queen of George II., in her robes by Amiconi,—presented by her majesty to Mr. Walpole on his completing Wolterton, with other presentation portraits of the family of George II., and in full length, in the pannel portraits of Charles I., in armour, and of George I., in his coronation robes, and George II., in half-armour. Portraits also of Rachel, Lady Walpole, grandmother of the present earl, daughter of William, third Duke of Devonshire, and of Harriet, daughter of General Churchill, wife of Sir Everard Fawkner, with her son, a child, (the late Mr. Fawkner, the father of the present Countess of Orford). On a marble table of large dimensions is a noble bust of Sir Robert Walpole, by Rysbraeck, with a star of the order of the garter, in his robes. A fine Rembrandt is also here; the subject, a Jew convert. An early picture by Opie, of children with a dog.
In advance of the hall, towards the southern suits of apartments is the great staircase, where, on a pedestal of Egyptian porphyry, is a colossal bust of Napoleon Buonaparte, the only existing copy of Canova’s original portrait model, of which was formed the ideal head of the statue in the Place Vendome.
The saloon front thirty-five feet six inches, by twenty-five feet six inches, and twenty feet high, finished in the rich and highly decorated style of that period. (1741.) Between the windows are two fine tables of oriental alabaster, of large dimensions, with many beautiful objects in sculpture, and in Dresden porcelain, to which have lately been added several casts of exquisite beauty, brought from Rome. Over the chimney-piece is a beautiful portrait of Louis XV., in his youth, in half-armour, with the royal mantle, presented by his majesty to Mr. Walpole, when ambassador at Paris. An original head of Pope by Richardson. Cardinal Fleury, by Rigaud, given by himself to Mr. Walpole. A view of Holland of large size. The celebrated landscape by Rubens called “The Rainbow,” late in the collection of Mr. Watson Taylor, generally considered as the chef d’oeuvre of this great master, in the department of landscape. Andrea Sabbatina. Crucifixion. A Christ bearing his cross, the Virgin kneeling by him, in full size by Murillo. A picture of exquisite merit. A Spanish girl.
In the drawing-room, to the right of the saloon, are three beautiful Canalettis, one a view of St. Mark’s cathedral, another a general view of the city of Venice, the third a view in Venice. The Dutch Wedding, by an unknown master, of great perfection, and beauty of finish. A landscape with cattle, by Castiglioni. An exquisitely finished picture of flowers, with the head of our Saviour in the centre in chiaro-scuro, by J. David de Heim. A cabinet picture of Berghem, also a beautiful cast brought lately from Rome by Lord Orford.
In Lady Orford’s room, on the left of the saloon is a noble chimney-piece, in verd-antique, with sculpture and statuary, surrounded by a portrait of Louis XIV. in armour, by Jervas. This room is hung with fine Gobelin tapestry, as are also part of the drawing-room, and small dining-room. The chairs, sofas &c., are here covered with tapestry, the fables of Æsop forming the principal subjects.
The park is of great extent, comprising upwards of seven hundred acres of land. The fine beech and oaks which adorn it were chiefly planted by the first Lord Walpole. On the south side of the Hall is a bold terrace with a parapet, surmounted with urns, adjacent to which is a beautiful garden, sloping to the margin of an extensive lake, the banks of which are richly clothed with wood, the whole forming, with the distant view of Blickling, a piece of park-scenery which cannot be excelled.
For the sake of variety, the road through Erpingham, shortening the distance a mile, may be taken on returning.
The church, dedicated to St. Margaret, is a ruin; scarcely anything but the tower remaining. It stands on the north side of the Hall, and is almost concealed by the lofty hollies which surround it.
