Pressure Tanks; Plumbing Fixtures

141. Pressure Tanks. A pressure tank is a device for storing water under pressure. It is usually placed in the basement of dwelling houses.

142. Construction of the Pressure Tank. The tank is tight and strong, so that it will hold air and water under pressure. The tank originally has some air in it. When the water is pumped in, the air not being able to escape, is compressed. When there is a chance for water to escape from the tank which is connected to water pipes, the pressure of the compressed air on the water forces it to upstairs rooms and other points. To this tank is attached a pressure gage which indicates the amount of pressure; or, in other words, the amount of water in the tank, for when the water gets low, the pressure is reduced unless the air has escaped. A glass gage shows the height of water. Provision is made to let some air into the tank, for otherwise it may in time be all forced out of the tank or absorbed by the water. The water in a pressure tank may be used to pump water from a cistern into another tank.

143. Care of Pressure Tanks. A pressure tank must not be pumped up to the extent that the pressure becomes greater than the strength of the tank. A safety valve is used in controlling the pressure.

144. Hot-Water Kitchen Tank. A force pump is generally used for pumping water into kitchen tanks, except when water from another tank, such as a city reservoir, flows into it.

145. Instantaneous Water Heaters. The instantaneous water heater (Fig. 71) is a device which heats water on its way to the outlet. It is composed of a heating unit and piping connected to the outlet pipes. In this type of heater, the pipes must always be kept full of water, and some device should be attached (Fig. 72) to the heater which will lower the heat as soon as, or before, the water reaches boiling temperature. This will prevent steam from forming, which might injure the system.

146. Heaters for Tanks. Hot water is lighter than cold. A pipe from the bottom of the tank leads into the heater, passes thru the heating coils and up into the top of the tank (Figs. 73 and 74). Water from the tank circulates thru this pipe as the hot water rises and the cold water falls in the tank. As the heater is located on a level with the bottom of the tank, cold water seeking this level flows into the pipe and becomes heated (Fig. 76).

A booster is a device which keeps the water hot up to the faucet (Fig. 75). If there is a pilot on a gas water heater, be sure to use it. The burners should be cared for in the same way as on other heaters using the same fuel. Keep the tank full of water and the water free to circulate thru the pipes. Air-tight tanks may become so hot that steam is formed in large amounts. Tanks which are not connected with city water pipes may be fitted with safety valves which open when the pressure of steam inside the tank reaches a certain point, which is below the danger point.

Should the pipes or tank freeze, do not start the fire in the heater, but thaw the pipes with applications of hot water or other means until the water can circulate in them.

Electric heaters are usually incased in a waterproof covering and put in the center of the tank. Small electric heaters are in use for heating a glass or other small amount of water. These are called immersion heaters.

147. The Elevated Water Tank. In rural homes, water is sometimes stored in an elevated tank. This is usually placed in the attic. It is frequently filled by means of a force pump connected with a windmill or gasoline engine. If there is no overflow to this tank, which there should be, it must be watched when being filled to prevent it from overflowing. It may be fitted with an automatic device similar to those used on the expansion tanks of hot-water furnaces or tanks to water closets for regulating the inflow of water.

148. Faucets. Faucets are made in different patterns, but they need practically the same care (Fig. 77). The leather, or rubber, washer in a faucet must be renewed when it leaks. To renew the washer, unscrew the cap from the faucet. Remove the valve. Take off the ring of packing. Replace with a new ring, and put the faucet together again. The only tools needed for this repair work are a wrench and a screwdriver. Shut off the water from the pipe to the faucet before beginning to repair a leaking faucet.

149. Valves. Valves are constructed much like faucets.

They, too, sometimes need repacking. Follow the directions for repacking of faucet (Fig. 78).

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150. Overflows. Keep overflows clean. When the plug and overflow are combined, as they sometimes are, lift out the cylinder forming the plug and overflow and wash it. When it fails to hold water in the tub or basin, it may need a new washer on the lower part. This may be replaced very easily. Fig. 79 shows one type of overflow.

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It is more difficult to keep other overflows clean. They may be flushed or cleaned with a brush attached to a wire.

151. Traps for Bath Tubs and Basins. Dirt and slime collects in traps. Clean them frequently. Always leave clean water in the traps of bathroom fixtures and sinks. Only matter quickly soluble in water should pass into drain pipes. Keep matches, hair, sweepings, rags, fruit skins and stones out of the fixtures.

If the drain from a basin, sink or tub fails to carry away the water, the stoppage may be removed with a small plumber's pump (Fig. 80). This is a small rubber cone-like device which is placed over the outlet to the drain and moved up and down so that it sucks air, water and whatever may be movable up the pipe.

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