CHAPTER I

BENEATH THE MOUNT

The Hiring at St. LÉger—Distant Beuvray—Fun of the Fair—A mad wolf—Legends of the Mount—Gaulish Bibracte—St. Martin at Beuvray—La Pierre de la Wivre—Legend of the Wivern—The CurÉ of Monthelon

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CHAPTER II

THE ROMAN CITY

A Suffering Cow—Temple of Janus—The Aedui—Druids—Divitiacus and Dumnorix—Vercingetorix—The Founding of Augustodunum—Pierre de Couhard—Francis I. at Couhard—The Plan of Augustodunum—Temple of Janus—Restoration—Origin of the Name—Roman Gates—Porte d'Arroux—Porte St. AndrÉ—Date of Construction—Porte des Marbres—Vagaries of Peasant guides

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CHAPTER III

THE ROMAN CITY (Continued)

French Passion for Statues—Roman Temple at Autun—Ecoles MÉniennes—The Capitol—The Roman Theatre—Two Ways of Lunching—Promenade des Marbres—The Amphitheatre

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CHAPTER IV

THE ROMAN CITY (Continued)

Christian Autun—Relics of Lazarus—Translation of the Relics—Tomb of Lazarus—Exterior of Cathedral St. Lazare—The Porch—The Interior—Romanesque and Gothic—The East End—Imbecile Restorations—The Capital—St. Symphorien by Ingres—Story of St. Symphorien—Fontaine St. Lazare—Hotel Rolin—The Museums—Napoleon at the Hotel St. Louis—No charge for Moonlight

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CHAPTER V

Cluny and Citeaux—Cluny still the Abbey—The Birth of Cluny—Duke William's Anathema—Odon—Legend of the Crumbs—Legend of the Boar—Growth of Cluny—Birth of Hugues—St. Odilon—Hildebrand—Glory of Cluny—The Monk's Vision—The new Abbey—Consecration—Gifts—Description of New Cluny—The Narthex—The Interior—Conventual Buildings—Ambulatorium Angelorum—The Rule of Cluny—Monkish life at Cluny—Pierre Damien—Death of St. Hugues—Luxury and Decadence

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CHAPTER VI

THE MOTHER ABBEY (Continued)

Cluny of To-day—Palace of Pope GÉlase—The remaining Transept—Chapelle Bourbon—Tour du Moulin—Tour des Fromages—Gate of the Narthex—The Abbey Gate—Notable Visitors to Cluny—Palais abbatial—MusÉe—Hotel de Ville—Romanesque Houses—Hotel des Monnaies—Eglise St. Marcel—Hotel Dieu—Bouillon Monument—Prud'hon—Women of Burgundy—Hotel de Bourgogne—An amusing Evening—A Dream—BerzÉ-le-ChÂtel—Castle of Lourdon—St. Point—A Poet's Garden—Lamartine's Home—Tramaye

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CHAPTER VII
MORE POPE THAN YOU

Decadent Cluny—Birth of St. Robert—Abbey of MolÊme—The Founding of Citeaux—White Robes—Black Scapular—Stephen's Vision—The Coming of St. Bernard—His Appearance—Legend of His Birth—Bernard converts his Family—Bernard a Cistercian—His Austerities—Rise of Citeaux—Daughter Abbeys—Ceremony of Foundation—Character of Bernard—Cistercian Ideals—Self-sacrifice—Simplicity—Bernard's Letter to Pierre le VÉnÉrable—Visitors to Citeaux—Albigensian Crusade—Citeaux's Crime—A Cistercian Site—Citeaux to-day—The Chapter—My Flemish Guide

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CHAPTER VIII
CLUNY'S DAUGHTER

Monkish Paray—"Une Simple FormalitÉ"—Burgundian Manners—Clothes and the Woman—Hotel de Ville—Church of Paray—Splendid Example of Clunisian School—"Diorama-MusÉe"—Burgundian English—North Door—Porch—Interior—Blasphemy and kindred Matters—A very young Mule—A Snake-charmer

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CHAPTER IX
HER THREE CROWNS

Chalon-Sur-SaÔne—River Pageants—Gontran—Abbey of St. Marcel—The Story of Bertille

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Church of St. Marcel—Story of AbÉlard and HÉloise—Olivier de la Marche—Tournament of la Dame des Pleurs—Tournament of 1273—Modern Chalon-Sur-SaÔne—Eglise St. Vincent

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CHAPTER XI
TOURNUS BY THE SAONE

Abbey of St. Philibert—Oldest Clunisian Porch—Interior of St. Philibert—A Change of Author—The Record of Raoul Glaber—Raoul's Visions—Famine in Burgundy—Human Vampires—In a Tournusian CafÉ—"Au Point du Jour"—Greuze—Morning and Evening on the SaÔne—MÂcon

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CHAPTER XII
THE VALLEY OF THE OUCHE

A Page of Dialogue—Castle of Marigny—Legend of Tebsima—AlbÉric—LabussiÈre—AlbÉric's Dream—Aid from Citeaux—The new Church—Modern LabussiÈre—A magnificent Mansion—Antigny-le-Chatel—A Vigneron's Wedding—Arnay-le-Duc—Study in Roofs and Colours—A charming Town—The Goats—The Poor Man—The Hotel ChrÉtien—Around Arnay

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CHAPTER XIII
THE CITY OF THE DUKES

Unknown Dijon—The City in 1364—Philip le Hardi—His jewelled Coats—The Madness of the Period—Costume of that Day—Madness of King Charles—Philip's Patronage of Art—Chartreuse de Champmol—Puits de Moise—Portal of the Chapel—Claus Slater and his Nephew—Tombs of Philip le Hardi and Jean sans Peur—The Pleurants—Character of Jean sans Peur—Murder of Duke of Orleans—Whitewashing—Armagnacs and Burgundians Revenge

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CHAPTER XIV
CITY OF THE DUKES (Continued)

Salle des Gardes—Dijon Castle—A new Post-Office—Final Struggle between Charles le TÉmÉraire and Louis XI—Characters of both Men—Defeats and Death of Charles—Discovery of the Body—Victorious RenÉ—Louis' Joy—New Castles—Entry into Dijon—End of Burgundian Dreams—Modern Dijon—St. BÉnigne—St. Michel—Notre Dame Jacquemart—Ducal Palace and Kitchen—Sketching—Palais de Justice—PlombiÈres—Talant—Fontaine-lez-Dijon—Memories of Bernard—Tournament of Tree of Charlemagne

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Easter Morning—Lux—The Devil's Pit—Dialogue—The Legend—Serve him right!

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CHAPTER XVI
BEAUNE AND THE COTE D'OR

"Bits" in Beaune—Notre Dame—Hotel Dieu—An Earthly Paradise—Exterior—Courtyard—Chapel—Devices—Roger Van der Weyden's "Last Judgment"—Nicholas Rolin—Guigonne

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CHAPTER XVII
SAINT MARTIN'S WELL AND THE LEGEND OF SAINT MARGUERITE

Bouilland—Abbey of Sainte Marguerite—The Legend—Vineyards of the CÔte d'Or—Meursault—Rochepot—Story of Philippe Pot—Crusader's Return—His Marriage at Dijon—Tant L Vaut—A Talk at Auxey-le-Grand—Through CÔte d'Or by Train—Cussy-la-Colonne—Bewitched—The Column—A Democratic Journey—St. Martin's Well—Legend of St. Martin's Well

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CHAPTER XVIII
IN RURAL BURGUNDY

The Road to Verdun—Burgundian Folk-song, "Eho!"—Its Story—Verdun sur le Doubs—The First of March—Burgundian Folk-Lore—Teillage—Winter Scene—An old-time Burgundian Wedding—The Patois—FranÇois Fertiault Rolin—Guigonne

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CHAPTER XIX
A LAKE IN THE JURA

Swiss Burgundy—Scenes in the Jura—Nantua from the Hills—Real Burgundy—A capable Woman—Church of Nantua

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CHAPTER XX
PRINCESS MARGARET'S CHURCH

Bourg-en-Bresse—Signs of the South—Conveyances—Monument Historique—Cezenat—Princess Margaret's Church—Exterior—Interior—Story of Princess Margaret—-Loys von Boghen—Death of Margaret—The Meaning of her Church—The Tombs—Paradin's Chronique de Savoie—Francis I. at Bourg

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