Lincoln’s Inn Hall; “Jarndyce and Jarndyce”—Old Square; Offices of Kenge and Carboy; Chambers of Sergeant Snubbin—Bishop’s Court; Miss Flite’s Lodging at Krook’s Rag and Bottle Warehouse; Nemo; Tony Weevle—The Old Ship Tavern; “The Sol’s Arms”—Coavinses’ Castle—Mr. Snagsby’s Residence, Took’s Court, Cursitor Street—Bell Yard; Lodgings of Neckett and Gridley—Tellson’s Bank, Fleet Street—The Temple; Fountain Court (Ruth Pinch and John Westlock); Garden Court (Pip’s Chambers); Pump Court (Chambers of the elder Martin Chuzzlewit); Paper Buildings (Sir John Chester and Mr. Stryver, K.C.)—Offices of Messrs. Lightwood and Wrayburn—Bradley Headstone’s Look-out—Clifford’s Inn; John Rokesmith and Mr. Boffin—St. Dunstan’s Pump and Maypole Hugh—St. Dunstan’s Church; “The Chimes”—Bradbury and Evans, Bouverie Street—Office of the Daily News—Hanging Sword Alley; Mr. Cruncher’s Rooms,–“Ye old Cheshire Cheese”—Farringdon, formerly Fleet, Market—Fleet Prison; Mr. Pickwick and Sam Weller’s Imprisonment—Belle Sauvage Yard—London Coffee House; Arthur Clennam’s arrival—St. Paul’s Churchyard—Dean’s Court—Doctors’ Commons; Messrs. Spenlow and Jorkins—“Bell Tavern”—Wood Street; Coach Office at which Pip first arrived—The London Stereoscopic Company; “Grip,” the Raven—Bow Church—The Guildhall; Bardell v. Pickwick—Grocers’ Hall Court—The Mansion House; References in “Barnaby Rudge,” “Christmas Carol,” and “Martin Chuzzlewit”—“Dombey and Son.” The Rambler now crosses Lincoln’s Inn Fields, and, on its eastern side, enters the precincts of Lincoln’s Inn, through an arched gateway, from Serle Street. Passing the imposing building of the Dining-Hall and Library on the left, with New Square on the right, we shortly arrive at
Here, on a seat at the side of the hall, stood little Miss Flite, in her squeezed bonnet, carrying “her documents,” and
The business of Chancery procedure is now transferred to the New Law Courts. Hard by, on the north, passing through the cloisters of the Chapel of Lincoln’s Inn, we come into the enclosure of Old Square, Lincoln’s Inn, where the Offices of Messrs. Kenge and Carboy were situated. Esther Summerson says:—
The houses in this square have been all rebuilt; but Kenge and Co.’s offices used to flourish in the north-west corner, where still the rising of the ground necessitates an exterior flight of steps. The chambers of Sergeant Snubbin, counsel for the defence in “Bardell v. Pickwick,” were also located in this square, probably on the opposite side. Returning to Lincoln’s Inn, we may follow Esther Summerson’s directions, and visit the apartments of Miss Flite—
Here, too, Captain Hawdon, otherwise Nemo, the law-writer, lived and died in a bare room on the second floor. A notice may have been observed in the old shop window, “Engrossing and Copying.” It will be remembered that this room was afterwards occupied by Mr. Tony Weevle, during whose tenancy it was decorated with a choice collection of magnificent portraits, being—
Returning to the top of the court, and passing a short distance along Star Yard, we reach, at the corner of Chichester Rents, a modern warehouse (No. 7), recently erected on the site of “The Old Ship Tavern,” now non est, named in the pages of “Bleak House” The Sol’s Arms, it being the house at which the Inquest was held, following the death of Nemo, as described in chapter 11; on which occasion the proffered evidence of Poor Jo was virtuously rejected by the presiding coroner.
The real Sol’s Arms still exists, No. 65 Hampstead Road, N.W., at the corner of Charles Street, once known as Sol’s Row. Its name was derived from the “Sol’s Society,” whose meetings, held therein, were of a Masonic character. It has been suggested that Dickens transferred the style and name of this house to the neighbourhood of Chancery Lane, as above. Coming now into Chancery Lane, we may observe, nearly opposite the old gateway of Lincoln’s Inn, Cursitor Street, a thoroughfare leading eastward from the Lane. It will be noticed that the houses in this street are comparatively of recent erection, and we may now look in vain for Coavinses’ Castle, which has been swept away by the besom of modern destruction and improvement. This old sponging-house flourished (in the days of Harold Skimpole) on the left of the street, on the site now occupied by Lincoln’s Inn Chambers, No. 1. At a short distance in Cursitor Street (No. 9) we come to a turning on the left to Took’s Court, referred to in “Bleak House” as Cook’s Court, in which was Mr. Snagsby’s Residence and Law Stationer’s Shop. The court is not a long one, and consists mainly of offices connected with the legal profession. The location of Mr. Snagsby’s shop was at the central corner on the left, the site being now occupied by modern offices and stores. “The little drawing-room upstairs” is described as commanding
The memorable, but now non-existent room, as prepared
Returning by Chancery Lane, on the left hand, we may note Bream’s Buildings, as being the northern boundary of the former site of Symond’s Inn, which hence extended onward to No. 22.
This inn has ceased to exist for many years past, its position being now occupied by a large printer’s establishment and other offices. Readers of “Bleak House” will remember that the professional chambers of Mr. Vholes were here situated, and that Richard Carstone and his young wife Ada resided in the next house, in order that Richard might have his legal adviser close at hand. Here occurred the early death of poor Richard; and we all cherish the remembrance of dear Ada’s wifely devotion, to which Esther Summerson thus refers:—
Leaving Chancery Lane, and turning (right) by Carey Street, we reach Passing through Bell Yard, we reach Fleet Street, at the point where once Temple Bar gave ancient entrance to the City. Its position is marked by a bronze griffin, surmounting a memorial pedestal beneath. Exactly on the opposite side of the street is the handsome modern erection of Child’s Bank. This new building dates from 1878, when the structure of old Temple Bar was removed. It replaces one of the very old-fashioned houses of London, in which for many years Messrs. Child carried on their important banking business. This house is spoken of by Dickens, in his “Tale of Two Cities,” as Tellson’s Bank, on the outside of which the mysterious Mr. Cruncher was usually in attendance as “odd-job man, and occasional porter and messenger.”
Passing Newton’s (optician) we arrive at the outer Gate of the Temple, by which we enter Middle Temple Lane, following which a short distance and turning to the right, by Middle Temple Hall, we reach Fountain Court. The fountain standing here, conspicuously in a central position, is associated with the history of Ruth Pinch. Here it was that Tom and his sister made appointments for meeting—
On further reference to the pages of “Martin Chuzzlewit,” we may recall the auspicious occasion when Ruth was under the special escort of John Westlock—
See chapter 53. In Garden Court beyond, Mr. Pip and his friend, Herbert Pocket, had residence. In “Great Expectations,” he says—
Here Pip’s patron and benefactor, the convict Magwitch, alias Provis, disclosed himself one memorable night, much to his “dear boy’s” discomfiture; and it will be remembered that temporary accommodation was found for him at
The houses in this court have been rebuilt, and we may
Here, also, old Martin Chuzzlewit revealed himself to the astonished Tom in his true character, and surprised the virtuous Mr. Pecksniff by a “warm reception,” when “the tables were turned completely upside down.”—See “Chuzzlewit,” chapters 39 and 52. Proceeding past Lamb Buildings, on the east side of the Cloisters, and by a passage six steps downwards, leading beneath the Inner Temple Dining-Hall, we may note across the road (right) a short range of substantial houses, known as Paper Buildings, facing King’s Bench Walk, where it will be remembered that Sir John Chester had his residential chambers, no doubt selecting a central position—say, at No. 3. Here at various times Mr. Edward Chester, Hugh, Sim Tappertit, and Gabriel Varden had audience with Sir John; for full particulars of which “overhaul the wollume”—“Barnaby Rudge.” In this neighbourhood also were situated the chambers of Mr. Stryver, K.C., where Sydney Carton served as “jackal” to that “fellow of delicacy;” as we read in “The Tale of Two Cities,” how Sydney
N.B.—Note the last window on the left (second floor), nearest the west wing, lately rebuilt. Coming again into Fleet Street, by the arched gateway of Inner Temple Lane, the wayfarer may recall the circumstance of Bradley Headstone’s nightly watchings opposite this point for the outgoings of Mr. Eugene Wrayburn, and the many fruitless journeys which were hence commenced, as Eugene enjoyed “the pleasures of the chase” at the expense of his unfortunate rival. Nearly facing us, on the north side of Fleet Street, is Clifford’s Inn Passage, into whose retirement Mr. Rokesmith, the hero of “Our Mutual Friend,” withdrew from the noise of Fleet Street, with Mr. Boffin, when offering that gentleman his services as secretary. Close at hand stands St. Dunstan’s Church, near to which the pump was, but is not, from whose refreshing streams “Hugh” (from the Maypole, Chigwell) sobered himself by a drenching on one occasion previous to visiting Sir John Chester at Paper Buildings. (Vide “Barnaby Rudge,” chapter 40.) The old pump has been replaced by a drinking-fountain. Toby Veck surely must have known that pump; for though there is no precise location given by Dickens in “The Chimes” for the church near to which Toby waited for jobs, there is an etching by Stanfield in the original Continuing the route, we pass Bouverie Street (Bradbury and Evans—now Bradbury, Agnew, and Co.—in this street were the publishers of several of the works of Dickens, “The Chimes” included) on the right, next arriving at Whitefriars’ Street on the same side. At the corner of the street, No. 67, is the public Office of “The Daily News.” This influential newspaper was started January 21, 1846, under the supervision of Charles Dickens, and in the earlier numbers of the journal were published instalments of his “Pictures from Italy.” Dickens shortly relinquished the editorship, being succeeded by his friends Jerrold and Forster. The fact is, Charles never greatly cared for the study of general or party politics; but he always identified himself with “the People—spelt with a large P, who are governed,” rather than “the people—spelt with a small p, who govern.” A short distance down Whitefriars’ Street is a passage (left) from which, at a right angle riverwards, we may look into Hanging Sword Alley, where Mr. Jeremiah Cruncher, messenger at Tellson’s, had his two apartments. These “were very decently kept” by his wife, whose “flopping” proclivities gave so much umbrage to Jerry. On the opposite side of Fleet Street—No. 146—just beyond, we turn (left) into Wine Office Court, and, on the right, we arrive at “Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.” In “The Tale of Two Cities,” Book 2, chapter 4, we read that Charles Darnay, being acquitted of the charge of high treason, on his trial at the Old Bailey, was persuaded by the young lawyer, Sydney Carton, to dine in his company thereafter:—
This, of course, was the tavern intended; it having been a noted resort with literary and legal men for more than a
The journey being resumed through Fleet Street, the visitor attains Ludgate Circus, from which Farringdon Street leads northward on the left. A short detour along this thoroughfare, facing the handsome bridge of the Holborn Viaduct, will afford a sight of Farringdon Market on the left side. Its position will recall the description given in “Barnaby Rudge,” in whose days it was known as Fleet Market,
Here the rioters assembled—as narrated in the book before mentioned—and passed a merry night in the midst of congenial surroundings. Retracing our steps, we may note, on the east side of Farringdon Street, the site of the old Fleet Prison, on a part of which now stands the Congregational Memorial Hall. The prison—fifty years since—stretched eastward in the rear as far as the present premises of Messrs. Cassell and Co., Belle Sauvage Yard. Proceeding up Ludgate Hill, we may soon note the Belle Sauvage Yard (turning by No. 68, on the left). The old inn, with its central metropolitan coach-yard, sixty years since occupied this site, where now the extensive printing and publishing offices of Cassell and Co. hold benignant sway. The place is referred to in an anecdote of Sam Weller’s anent the preparation of his father’s marriage licence, as arranged at Doctors’ Commons, the place being evidently regarded by that respected coachman as his parochial headquarters in London—
The plan of the inn-yard is considerably changed from its olden style. In Mr. Weller’s time it comprised two courts, the outer one being approached from Ludgate Hill by the present entrance, and the Belle Sauvage Inn forming a second quadrangle, with an archway about half-way up from the main entrance. In this interior court was the coach-yard, surrounded by covered wooden galleries, in accordance with the fashion of the times. Passing onwards on the same side, past Old Bailey, we arrive at the site of the London Coffee Tavern, No. 46 Ludgate Hill, now occupied by the corner shop of Messrs. Hope Brothers, the well-known outfitters. The old house was pulled down in 1872. Here Mr. Arthur Clennam rested awhile on his arrival “from Marseilles by way of Dover, and by Dover coach, ‘the Blue-Eyed Maid,’” one dismal Sunday evening, as narrated in chapter 3 of “Little Dorrit.” We now soon come to
He further relates to Mr. Pickwick the circumstance of his father’s having been here persuaded to take a marriage licence, directing the lady’s name to be filled in on speculation. We hear more of Doctors’ Commons in the chronicles of “David Copperfield.” The Offices of Spenlow and Jorkins were situated in this locality; but the site is now occupied by the Post Office Savings’ Bank in Knightrider Street. Passing through the Archway and by the Deanery of St. Paul’s (right), we cross Carter Lane, and proceed by a narrow court, Bell Yard, to the street above mentioned. At the corner of Carter Lane and Bell Yard is the “Bell Tavern,” which it may be interesting to note, as a house where Mr. Dickens frequently rested, making his notes in preparation for David’s “choice of a profession.” For full particulars the Rambler is referred to chapter 23 of David’s autobiography. It may also be remembered that the worthy Mr. Boffin (see “Our Mutual Friend”), when instructing his attorney, seemed to be somewhat mixed in his ideas relative to this institution. In conversation with Mr. Lightwood, he once This locality has, of late years, altogether changed both its name and aspect. The old archway has disappeared. As previously stated, it is now known as Dean’s Court. In connection with its old associations, there exists The Bishop of London’s Registry and Marriage Licence Office, at the east corner of the court; and there are some Proctors’ offices doing business, as in the days of Copperfield, in the neighbourhood. On the east side of the Cathedral, the visitor turns into Cheapside, soon arriving, on the left-hand side of the way (No. 122), at Wood Street. Associated with “Great Expectations,” as containing “Cross Keys Inn” (“The Castle,” No. 25), at which house Mr. Pip arrived when first visiting London, in accordance with instructions received per Mr. Jaggers. Crossing Cheapside, and onwards by the south side, we reach the well-known establishment of the London Stereoscopic Company, No. 54. It may be interesting to know that this firm possesses the stuffed original of “Grip,” the Raven, the fortunate bird that received a double passport to fame, Dickens having narrated the particulars of its decease, and Maclise having sketched its apotheosis. This relic, so intimately associated with the tale of “Barnaby Rudge,” was purchased at the public sale of Mr. Dickens’s effects for £110, and its photographic portrait may be now obtained at this address. A few steps farther on the same side stands the old Church of St. Mary-le-Bow, whose bells recalled Dick Whittington to fame and fortune. These same bells are mentioned in the history of “Dombey and Son,” chapter 4, as being within hearing at the offices of that important firm. Passing on, and crossing to the north side of the thoroughfare, we arrive at King Street (turning by No. 92), at the top of which is The Guildhall. In the City Court attached thereto, that memorable case for breach of promise of marriage, Resuming the promenade of Cheapside (still in the reverse direction of the progress of Lord George Gordon and his escort), we come into the Poultry, at the farther end, passing a turning on the left therefrom, known as Grocers’ Hall Court. It will be remembered that on one occasion when Mr. Pickwick desired a quiet glass of brandy and water, Sam Weller, whose “knowledge of London was extensive and peculiar,” led the way from the Mansion House, proceeding by the second court on the right, to the last house but one on the same side of the way, where he directed his master to
In pursuance of these explicit instructions, we shall find that this house is now in possession of Mr. Sheppard, gasfitter, but it is recollected that it was, aforetime, a restaurant of the old-fashioned sort. Mr. Weller, the elder, was here introduced to his son’s patron, and thereupon arranged for Mr. Pickwick’s journey to Ipswich. At the end of the Poultry we next approach, on the right, The Mansion House, mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as the residence of the Mayor of London. We read of this civic potentate in the pages of “The Christmas Carol,” when, one Christmas Eve,
Mark Tapley also—in America—once made jocose reference
Messrs. Dombey and Son had their offices in the City, within the sound of Bow Bells, and not far from the Mansion House. Their position was probably in proximity to The Royal Exchange, but the address cannot be definitely indicated. Here Mr. Carker, the manager, reigned supreme, and schemed for his own aggrandisement, regardless of the prosperity of the house. The name of the firm is still perpetuated in the City, and the thriving establishment of the well-known merchant tailors—Dombey & Son—will be found at No. 120 Cheapside, at which a large and well-conducted business is carried on. From this point we may conveniently visit “His Lordship’s Larder” (at three minutes’ distance), Cheapside, where we may advantageously refresh, “rest, and be thankful.” |