| Page |
Introductory Chapter. |
| 1 |
CHAPTER I. |
Reminiscences of early Childhood—My Birth-place—Sheikh Faris Biridi—Early Tuition—Family Customs—Position of Shuay-fÂt, and Pastures—Inhabitants—Author quits for Beyrout | 5 |
CHAPTER II. |
Beyrout—Piratical Attack—Flight to Mountains—Effects of the Assault upon the Inhabitants | 14 |
CHAPTER III. |
Damascus—Author’s First visit to—Description of the Town—The Inhabitants—The Customs and Manners—The Ladies—Their Beauty and Freedom—Court-yards and Houses—Bazaars—Environs—SoirÉes—Games—Specimens of Poetry and Songs—Wonderful Legend—Refreshments—Entertainment given by the British Consul—Privileges of Christians—Padre Tomaso—American and British Missions—Population—Antiquity—Ravages by Cholera | 18 |
CHAPTER IV. |
Return to Beyrout—American Mission—Original Difficulties they encountered—How overcome—The Estimation of Physicians—Anecdote of Mr. Zohrab—American Doctors—Introduction to School—Reminiscences of School-days—Anecdote of Sheikh Ahmed—Lists of Missionaries—Adventure of Mr. Bird—The Pacha’s Revenge—Description of the Rise of the Settlement and trade at Beyrout—Climate, Hints with regard to | 41 |
CHAPTER V. |
Visit to Cyprus—Description of Voyage—Arrival at Larnaca—Visit to Nicosia and other towns—Cyprus Wines—Languages—Departure for Tersous—Arrival at Mersine—Scenery in Cilicia—Gardens—Buildings of Tersous—Streets—Climate—Inhabitants—Signor Michael Saba—Adana—Its Shops and Streets—Inhabitants—Fanaticism—Revolts—Pacha’s Service—The Pass of Kulek Bughas—Scenery—Departure for Ayas | 57 |
CHAPTER VI. |
Ayas to Scanderoon—Scanderoon to Aleppo—Description of Journey—The Aleppines—Their Style and Polish—A Wedding described—Syrian Step-mothers—Jewish and Christian quarters—Earthquake of 1822—Pastimes and Garden Parties—Population—Commerce—Departure for Antioch—Gessir il Haded—Orontes—Antioch | 71 |
CHAPTER VII. |
Antioch—Its Beauty and Fruitfulness—Visit to Suedia and Lattakia—Signor Mosi Elias—Hardships endured by Consular Agents—Anecdote of English Travellers—Uses and Abuses of the Protection System—Fanaticism of Moslem Populace—Produce—Lattakia to Tripoli—Oranges—Abu Rish—Signor Catsoflis—A fair Intercessor for Justice to the Injured—Results of the Appeal—Cedars of Lebanon—Baalbec—Anecdote of English Forces—Turjaman Bashi—Strange Character of Sayid Ali—Damascus—Djouni and Sidon—Lady Hesther—General Loustannau—Description of Sidon—Bombardment of St. Jean d’Acre—Kaipha and Mount Carmel—Mistaken Ideas of Love | 85 |
CHAPTER VIII. |
First visit to England—Sail for Malta—Miseries of Seasickness—Arrival at Malta—The Emir Beschir—Late Bishop of Jerusalem—Steam Frigate Gorgon—Arrival at Portsmouth—Rev. Baptist Noel—London—Souvenir of Wimbledon—A Duel prevented—Anecdote of Druse Sheikh—Return to Syria—Sir George Otway—Arrival at Beyrout—War between Druses and Maronites—Stamboul—Emir Kasim, his History—Lord Cowley—Dr. Bennett—Mr. Goodall—Return to England—Malta—Marseilles—Adventure with French Officer—M. Guizot—Suliman Pacha—M. Thiers—Delicate Mission—Arrival in England—Prince Callimaki—Mr. Zohrab—Mr. B. Phillips—King’s College, London—Medical Profession—Lectures—Frightful Accident—Long Illness—Admission as Member of King’s College—The Mir Shahamet Ali and Sir C. Wade—Visit to Manufacturing Districts—Lamartine | 122 |
CHAPTER IX. |
Visit to Paris—First Impressions—Boulevards—Champs ElysÉes—Description of a Lodging-house—Domestic Habits of the French—English and French Friendship—Departure for Constantinople vi Vienna | 164 |
CHAPTER X. |
Reminiscences of Stamboul—Entertainments—Songs—The Tailor and the Sultan—The Sultan’s Condescension—Marriage of the Daughter of Prince Vogiredis—Turkish Navy—Present Crisis—A Renegade Girl | 170 |
CHAPTER XI. |
Egypt—Abbas Pasha and his Improvements—The British Consul-General—Mr. Abet—Mr. Larking—Boghas Bey—Antiquities—Climate—Library—Advantages enjoyed by European Residents—Festivities—Fulfilment of Prophecy—Late Gift of Horses presented by Nubar Bey to her Majesty—The Hon. G. Massey—Impressions made on the Grooms | 184 |
CHAPTER XII. |
Visit to Devonshire, Bath, and Cheltenham—Visit to Lady Rolle—Description of Bicton—Travelling by an Express Train—A Coachman’s Remarks—The Park—Arrival and Reception—Description of my Life—My Portrait taken—Amusements—Conversation with Mrs. P--- of Exeter about the Greek Church—English Young Ladies—Cottage Visiting—Buildings erected by Lady Rolle at Bicton—Amusing Anecdote of an Eastern Princess—Drive to Exeter—Equipage—Cathedral—Frescoes—Gaol—Child in Prison there—Female Department—Villagers’ Opinions of me—Bath—Beauties of Country reminded me of Syria—Springs—Arrival—Sir Claude Wade—Tour of the City—Society—Diversity of Religious Opinions—Service—SoirÉe—Agreeable Rencontre—Second Visit to Bath—Bachelor’s Ball—Lady Mayoress’s Ball at the Guildhall—Recognition as a Free-mason—Invitation to “The Lodge of Honour” to meet the Mayor—Meeting with Dr. Thompson—Lecture—Quoted from the Paper—Visit to Cheltenham—Rev. J. Brown—Rev. C. H. Bromley—Meeting—My Address—Appeal to send over for, and educate young Syrians at the Normal College at Cheltenham—Case of a young Syrian Lad—Lord Northwick—His Collection of Paintings—Conclusion—Reasons for appearing before the Public as an Author | 197 |
CHAPTER XIII. |
Impressions of England—Letters to a Friend in the East—Voyage to England—Landing—Custom-house—Crowded Thoroughfares—English Activity—Hotel—Servants—Drive—Motley Groups—Squares—Park—Houris—Heart-aches—Dinner—English Splendour, but Syrian Ease and a Chibuk preferred—English Acquaintances—Society—Young Ladies—Their Freedom—Matrons—Their Acquirements—Etiquette—Dress—Widows—Gentlemen—English Sabbath—Public Schools and Colleges—The Queen—Missionary and Charitable Institutions—Great Wealth of the English—The Merchants—The Fashionable World—The Opera—Expensive Pleasure—Insatiable Craving for Riches—Desire for an English Home—Marriages—Children—Schooling—Absence of Reverence for Beards—Devotion of the Young Fair Sex to Uniforms—Kindness to Strangers—Interest in the Holy Land—Hospitality—Private Worth and Public Scheming | 216 |
CHAPTER XIV. |
Life, Manners, and Customs of Syria—Ceremonies at Births—Christian Names—Remedies for Infantile Diseases—Early Instruction and Training—Syrian Manners—Reverential Treatment of Priests—Personal Cleanliness—Education—Betrothal—Marriage—Polygamy of Mahommedans—Education of Girls—Household Maxims—Domestic Snakes—Mourning for the Dead—A Lover’s Lament | 233 |
CHAPTER XV. |
Syria and her Inhabitants—Description of the Southern parts of Palestine—The Misery of its Inhabitants—Their Disposition and Labours—Sea-coast Population—Their Habits—Scriptural Analogy—Sidon, Lebanon, Tripoli, Lattakia and Antioch—The Children of those Parts—Appeal to the British on behalf of Syria—Real State of the Turkish Empire—Safety of English Investments—The Turkish Dominions—How to purchase Property—English Emigrants would be welcomed in Syria—Mr. John Barker—Colonel Churchill—Lady Hester Stanhope—Fruits—Cultivation of the Soil—Advantages for the English Emigrant and Amelioration for Syria—Major Macdonald—His Discovery of Turquoises and Presentation of some to the Queen—Advice to Emigrants—All Particulars and Expenses of Voyage explained, Outlay, Working, Expenditure and Profits derivable—Climate recommended for Health | 259 |
CHAPTER XVI. |
Syria, her Inhabitants and their Religion—Religious Teaching in Syria—American Missionaries—Their Zeal—Greek or Orthodox Eastern Church—Interview and Conversation with the Patriarch and Bishops at Constantinople—Letter from Syria—The Conversion of the Son of a Mufti to Christianity—Lord Shaftesbury and the Protestant College at Malta—Mahommedan Power and the Christian Churches in Syria—Claims of the Orthodox Eastern Church and its Affinity to the Protestant Churches of England—The Four Patriarchs—Education of the Syrian Priesthood—The Service of the Orthodox Eastern Church—Dissenters from it—Account of Karolus their Patriarch—Dispute about the Head-dress and reference to Constantinople—Decision—Jealousies of the Christian Sects—Political Animosities | 279 |
CHAPTER XVII. |
The Maronites—Their Political Position—Anecdote connected with the Year 1821—Their Customs, Manners, and Religion—The Number of Roman Catholics in Syria—The Copts—The Nestorians | 299 |
CHAPTER XVIII. |
The Population of Syria continued—The Metoulis or Heterodox Followers of Mahommed—The Druses—The Nosairiyeh—The Yezidees | 317 |
CHAPTER XIX. |
Appearance and Costume of the People—The Aleppine Greeks—The Dyers—The Armenians—The Yahoodee or Israelites—The Turkish Effendi—The Bedouins—The Fellaheen | 338 |
CHAPTER XX. |
The Occupations of the People—Lebanon in April—The Mulberry Plantations—Anecdote—The Silkworms—The Wheat Harvest—Borghol—The Vintage—The Olive Winter—The Resources of Syria—The Small Capitalists in Syria | 352 |
CHAPTER XXI. |
The Comparative Influences of the Roman Catholic and Protestant Faiths in Syria—The Roman Catholics—Their Convents—Greek and Armenian Monasteries—The Knowledge and Practice of Medicine—The Influence of the Hakeem—Anecdote—Conversions—The Sisters of Charity | 370 |
CHAPTER XXII. |
The Remedy—The Early Apostles—Physicians—Missionaries—Introduction of the Silkworm from China—Incorporation of the Medical with the Clerical Profession—Proposed Society to be formed in England—Hospital—School-rooms—Dispensary—Purchase of Land—Its Cultivation—System of Education—Letter of Dr. Thomson—Mr. Cuthbert Young’s “Notes of a Wayfarer” | 384 |
APPENDIX. |
Notes on the Geology of Syria, by Professor Forbes | 397 |