A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W Y Z
Achilles, shield of, 33, 103.
Aelgitha, wife of Canute, embroideries by, 366.
Æsthetic, 17, 90, 339.
Agrippina, golden garment of, 143.
Alessandri Palace, Florence, 284.
Alexander the Great, 142, 299;
wedding tent of, 263-4;
pall of, 142.
Alkisthenes, mantle of, 298.
Altar, 42, 346;
altar-piece, 328;
altar-cloths, 340, 346;
by Queen Emma, 366.
Amasis, corselet of, 20, 308;
Bishop of, 299.
Anne of Brittany, 331.
Apollo of BranchidÆ, 296.
Arabesque, 43, 80.
Arachne, 237.
Aragon, Catherine of, embroideries by, 383.
Aristophanes, 98.
Arras, 238, 243, 255-6, 274.
Arrazzi, 245;
Prince of, 249;
trade with, 250, 252.
Art of dress, 298;
of needlework, 396.
Art, Greek, 18, 35, 59, 306;
Egyptian, 20, 25, 34, 56-7;
Scandinavian, 29, 40;
Roman, 37, 60, 310;
Romanesque, 36, 323;
Christian, 37, 39, 300, 306, 311, 315, 317;
Chinese, 38, 73, 153, 155;
Japanese, 38, 64, 65, 393;
Gothic, 42, 52, 68, 307, 324;
Italian, 43, 311;
French, 46;
Ecclesiastical, 41, 78, 303, 305;
Aryan, 69, 70;
Celtic, 96, 273;
decorative, 289;
Lombardic, 310;
Pagan, 338.
Asbestos linen, 123.
Atrebates, 136, 246.
Attalus II., 142.
Auxerre, Bishop of, 242.
Balawat, bronze gates from, 271.
Baldachino, 170, 268, 283, 312.
Banner, 215;
of St. Cuthbert, 349.
Bas-relief, Assyrian, 287.
Bayeux tapestries, 367.
Beads, 332.
Bede, mention of worked palls by, 160.
Bedsteads, 282;
at Kenilworth, 283-4;
at Hampton Court, 395.
Bellini, portrait of Mahomet II., 147.
Black, 187.
Blode-bendes, or silk arm-bindings, 374.
Blue, 184, 187.
Boadicea, dress of, 87, 359.
Bombacinum or cotton, 138.
Book-coverings in library of Charles V., 289.
Borghese Palace, Rome, 277.
British Museum, sculptures in, 22;
vases, 31, 114;
frieze of Parthenon, 31;
mantle of Demeter, 93;
Egyptian dress, 93;
glass bowls, 101;
carpets from Nineveh, 105;
Egyptian woollen embroidery, 130;
fine linen printed, 134;
garment with gold ornaments, 144;
“opus pectineum” from Egypt, 236;
pavements, 272;
bronze statuette of Minerva, 297;
specimen of “opus Anglicanum,” 376.
Brocade, 141.
Bronze age, 358;
statues, 359.
Brown, 187.
Buckram, 139.
Burleigh House arras, 256.
Byrri, 238.
Byssus, 134-5.
Byzantium, 306, 314.
Carpets, 261, 285;
Persian, 23, 73, 132, 188, 241, 271, 371.
Cashmere, 133.
Castle Ashby, tapestries at, 277.
Catacombs, 304.
Chair, 285;
chair-backs, 286.
Chaldean house, 281.
Charles I., 255, 390.
Charles V., library of, 289, 295.
Chasuble, 164;
by Isabella of Spain, 147;
at Coire, 328;
of St. Oswald, 362;
at Valencia, 381;
for Henry III., 374.
Chaucer, 251.
Chemmis, city of Pan, woollen trade in, 127.
Chenille, 395.
Church historical embroideries, 316.
Ciclatoun, 145.
Cinnabar, 183.
Clavus latus, 309, 337.
Cleves, Anne of, 384.
Cochineal, 184.
Code of Manu, 89.
Colour, 175-193;
prismatic, 177;
purple, 180;
crimson, 184;
copper, 184;
yellow, 185;
pure, 189, 192;
iodine, 190;
chromatic, 190;
Oriental, 191;
gas, 191;
foundation, 289;
green, 289;
liturgical, 305;
mystical, 335.
Complication, 67.
Confusion, 65.
Constantine, 306, 316.
Consutum, 214.
Contrast, 66.
Conventional, 71, 97.
Cope of St. Andrew, 144;
Syon, 206, 326;
of Boniface VIII., 320;
at Rheims, 321-2;
Daroca, 320, 376;
at Stoneyhurst, 348, 379;
of Innocent III., 369;
at Durham, 390.
Copper, 184.
Coral, 88, 124, 332.
Coronation robes, 295, 318, 362;
of St. Stephen of Hungary, 322;
of Charles X., 339;
of Edward the Confessor, 366;
of James II., 393.
Corselet of Amasis in temple at Lindos, in Rhodes, 20, 308.
Cotton, 137;
cotton trees, 138;
woven, 139;
cotton plush, 139.
Counterpane worked by Queen Catherine, 384.
Coverlets, 393.
Crewels, 133, 229, 345, 398;
work in, 390, 392.
Crimson, 184.
Cross, 103;
of St. Andrew, 144;
Greek, 165;
emblem of, 308;
prehistoric, 335-6.
Croyland Abbey embroideries, 366.
Crusaders, 307, 371.
Curtains, 261, 270, 272, 281, 288;
ordered by Sergius, 312;
by Pope John, 312;
by Stephen IV., 312.
Cushion at Hatfield, of James I.’s reign, 390.
Cuthbert, St., 144;
silk garments in tomb of, 163, 165, 364-5. Cyprus bowls, 109.
Dado, 271.
Dais, the chamber of, 282.
Dalmatic of Charlemagne, 53, 317-18;
at Valencia, 381.
Damascus, 127.
Decoration, 5, 50, 70, 290, 355;
art of, 273.
Decorative, 81, 273.
Design, 54-81;
floral, 71, 345, 348;
English, 377;
by St. Dunstan, 365.
Detail, 71.
Dress, 70, 294, 301, 373;
Greek, 297-8;
Roman, 299;
early Christian, 300;
of Claudius, 360;
of Duke and Duchess of Buckingham, 393.
Durham Cathedral, 348.
Dyes, 183, 185, 358;
Indian, 187.
East India Company, monopoly of trade by, 388.
Ecclesiastical embroidery, 303, 327, 330, 353;
for images, 305;
priests’ robes, 306;
materials used in, 311;
names of garments in, 313, 316;
at Durham, 316;
English, 332.
Edward II., 250.
Edward III., 377.
Eighteenth century decorations, 112;
embroidery, 393, 395.
Eleanor, Queen, crosses of, 372.
Emare, mantle of, 372.
Embroiderers’ Guild, 388;
list of names, 373;
Company in Elizabeth’s reign, 387, 394.
Embroideries, Babylonian and Ninevite, 22, 44, 105, 127, 132, 271, 299, 311, 350;
Greek, 31-2, 93, 103, 142;
German, 43, 149;
Italian, 43, 116, 147;
Spanish, 45, 150, 331, 383;
Portuguese, 45;
Scandinavian and Celtic, 68, 91, 104, 116, 131, 136, 306;
Egyptian, 93, 114, 130, 134, 209, 236, 271;
Assyrian, 93, 127, 262, 357;
Roman, 129, 143, 153, 313;
Chinese, 97, 113, 127, 151, 208;
Persian, 99, 266, 299;
Japanese, 109, 214;
Russian, 201, 206, 313;
Delphic, 272;
English, 319, 321, 325, 356-396;
spurious, in Henry VI.’s reign, 377.
Embroidery, art of, 16, 136, 173, 195, 289, 378;
white, 200;
in churches, 313, 341.
Emma, Queen, embroideries by, 366.
Enamel, 146.
Etruscan borders, 47;
tombs, 357.
Fashion, 301.
Fayoum, 39;
ancient Egyptian textile fabrics from, 139, 300.
Fictile vases, 31, 32, 93, 103.
Field of Cloth of Gold, 381-2.
Filatorium, 222.
Fitness, 81.
Flat, drawing on, 69-70;
stitches, 345.
Flavius Vopiscus, 158.
Flax, 133, 135.
Flemish work, 329.
Floral patterns, 71.
Floss silk, 374.
Flowers, 291.
Footstools, 285.
Frames, 292, 299, 371, 389.
Frescoes, 373.
Fringes, 271, 351.
Fulham, tapestry works at, 257.
Furniture, 280-293.
Gammadion, 104. Gaudry, Bishop, tapestry of, 242.
Geoffrey, Abbot, 249.
Gisela, Queen, 323.
Giustini Palace, Florence, 277.
Gobelins, 131, 237, 247-8, 275, 277.
Gold, 140, 143;
threads, 346;
Gothic design in, 75, 377;
embroideries, 202;
needlework for Elinor of Aquitaine, 369;
Spanish lace, 381;
caskets, 389.
Gradation, 67.
Green, 187.
Gregory Nazianzen, 160.
Grey, 187.
Grotesque, 43.
Guimp, 163, 223.
Hair, 133.
Hampton Court, 288, 384;
bed at, worked by Mrs. Pawsey, 395.
Hand-looms, 374.
Hangings, 243, 260-274;
of the Hebrew Sanctuary, 262;
of Alexander’s tent, 263;
portraits on, 265;
in Kosroes’ “white palace,” 268;
on Greek vases, 269;
in Pompeii, 269;
saffron, mentioned by Euripides, 272;
French, sixteenth century, 274;
modern French, 275;
in Holland House, 276;
in Florence, 277;
in Rome, 277;
English, from time of Harold to Edward IV., and others, 370, 384, 392-3.
Harmonies, 66.
Hawaiian royal mantle, 209.
Helen, 33.
Helena, Empress, 316, 360.
Hemp, 121.
Henry II., mantle of, 203, 323.
Henry VIII., manufacture of tapestry in reign of, 252;
embroidery, 302, 369, 384-5.
HephÆstion, catafalque of, 267.
Hexameron work of St. Ambrose and St. Basil, 333.
Holland House, 276.
Homer, 11, 19, 33, 130.
Hom, the sacred, 99, 334.
Icelandic Sagas, 273, 362.
Illumination, 273, 305, 310, 363.
Imperial, a silk tissue, 161.
India, arts of, 7, 27, 75, 83, 311;
Museum, 89, 285.
Indian carving, 75;
shawls, 133;
cotton fabrics, 138;
dyes, 187;
embroideries, 284, 299;
manufactures, 389, 391, 394.
Inscriptions, 105, 146, 341;
woven in, 168;
in tapestry, 242, 375.
Isabella of France, 331;
of Spain, 384.
Jacket in Lady Waterford’s collection, 386.
James I., manufacture of tapestry in reign of, 254;
portrait of, 255;
work in reign of, 387, 388.
Josephus, 9.
Juno, toilet of, 297.
Jute, 121.
Kells, Book of, 30.
Khotan, Prince of, 156.
Kosroes’ hangings, 261, 268.
Kunigunda, Empress, 203, 323.
Lace, 222-235;
bone, 225;
yak, 225;
needle-made, 227;
ancient lace-books, 228;
stitches, 229;
Venetian, 229;
Burano, 230;
list of, 231;
blond, 232;
schools in France, 233;
for ecclesiastical purposes, 233;
bobbin, 234;
Limerick, 234;
Irish, 234;
Honiton, 234;
Spanish, 383. Lambeth tapestry works, 257;
missal at, 30.
Lares, 291.
Leather, 123.
Lilac, 187.
Linen, 357-8.
Lombardic, 310, 323.
Lotus, 89, 102, 105.
Louis XIV., 46, 247, 276, 332, 393.
Louis XV., 47, 110, 247, 276, 332.
Louis XVI., 332.
Lyons, 151, 167, 345.
Maniple of St. Cuthbert, 144;
in Durham library, 364.
Mantle of Demeter, 93;
of Ajax, 103;
of Servius Tullius, 129;
of Alkisthenes, 299;
of Gisela, 323;
of King Wiglaf, 363-4.
Manu, Code of, 314.
Manufactures of Nineveh and Babylon, 127;
at Lyons, 151;
of silk, 160;
at Palermo, 161.
Marcus Aurelius, 158.
Mark’s, St., Venice, 346.
Mary, Queen of Scots, 387.
Mary’s, St., Hall, Coventry, 250, 379.
Melito, Bishop of Sardis, book on Symbolism by, 333.
Middle Ages, 12, 23, 42, 73, 125, 137, 145, 168, 183, 202, 239, 242, 249, 273, 307, 315.
Mitre at Milan, 211;
of St. Thomas À Becket, 321, 369.
Monks of St. Florent, Saumur, 242;
of Cluny, 242;
of Fleury, 242;
in England, 249;
of St. Alban’s, 251.
Monuments, 373.
Morris, William, 290.
Mosaics, 40, 300, 314;
Empress Theodora’s dress figured in, 41, 93;
of Sta. Pudenziana, 306, 317;
early Christian, 314;
in Sta. Maria Maggiore, 117, 322.
Mummy-wrappings, 21.
Museum, Cluny, 247, 275, 277;
at Boulac, 56.
Muslin, 139.
MycenÆ, tomb of Agamemnon at, 19;
lion’s gate of, 304.
Needle, the first, 14, 357;
bronze, steel, 195, 213;
bone, 358.
Nimroud, 24.
Nineteenth century, style of, 49, 339.
Normans, 366.
Northumberland House, tapestries at, 257.
Nunneries, 10.
Opus Alexandrinum, 117.
Opus Anglicanum, 325, 376.
Orange, 187.
Order, 59.
Oriental work, 392.
Orphrey, 368-9.
Oudenarde “hallings” or “salles,” 252.
Painting, 4.
Palermo, silk-weaving at, 165, 307.
Pall of Alexander, 142;
at Dunstable, 251, 378;
of London Companies, 329, 379.
Pamphile silk-weaver, 152.
Panels, 69, 79.
Patchwork, 117;
appliquÉ, 214, 325, 392.
Patterns, 82-117;
wave, 62, 114;
key, 63, 97;
Oriental, 84, 99;
lotus, 89, 102;
animal, 93;
lily, 95;
rose, 95;
palm leaf on shawl, 96;
sacred hom, 99;
pine-apple, 100;
honeysuckle, 101;
egg and tongue, 102;
cross, 103;
crenelated, 104;
Renaissance, 108;
cloud, 109, 338;
fundata or netted, 109;
wheel, 110;
Moorish, 110;
Sicilian, 111;
shell, 112;
Indian balcony, 112;
chrysoclavus or palmated, 113;
wicker and lattice-work, 113;
bead, 114;
daisy, 114;
geometrical, 115;
German and Venetian books of, 206;
feather, 208;
Persian, 241;
check, 270;
metal-work, 325;
RoËs, or wheel and plate, 336-7;
Indian dimity, 394.
Peacocks, 163, 211;
feathers, 376.
Pearls, 332, 362, 383, 389.
Pectineum, 235.
Penates, 291.
Penelope, bridal couch of, 281.
Peplos of Athene, 32.
PÈre LabbÉ, 242.
Persian carpets, 23, 73, 98, 132, 241, 266, 271;
rugs, 94;
silks, 153.
Perspective, 70.
Peter’s, St., Rome, 346.
Pheidias, 59.
Phoenicians, 7, 21, 125, 176, 357;
bowls from Cyprus, 109.
Phrygium, 202.
Pictorial art, 79, 331.
PlÂteresque, 45.
Plumarii, 207, 212.
Plush, 221.
Pluvial of St. Silvester, 319;
at Bologna, 320;
at Aix, 351;
Daroca, 376.
Polymita, 87.
Pompeii, 269.
Portraits of Charles V., 295;
of Richard II. at Wilton House, 372;
of fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, 379;
in needlework in reign of James I., 388.
Portuguese silks, 394.
Progression, 64.
Proportion, 64, 291.
Pulvinarium, 204.
Purl, 387.
Purple, 187.
Queen Anne, style in reign of, 46, 49, 88, 391, 394.
Queen Elizabeth, embroidery of, 385-6;
style in reign of, 389.
Queen Mary of Hungary, 330.
Queen Matilda, 367.
Radiation, 67.
Raphael, 44, 245;
cartoons of, 255.
Renaissance, 26, 43, 45, 75, 108, 308, 329, 380, 383.
Repetition, 62.
Reredos at St. Alban’s, 249, 347;
of Vintners’ Company, 251.
Richard Coeur de Lion, 374.
Robes of Julius CÆsar, 153;
of Childeric, 144;
of Bishop Adhelme, 361;
of St. Thomas À Becket, 369.
Roger, King of Sicily, transports silk-weavers from Greece, 161.
Roman silks, 160;
fashions, 299.
Romanesque, 36, 306, 323, 362, 364.
Roses, Wars of, 371, 372-3, 378.
Rugs, 285.
Runic art, 29, 306.
Samit, 145.
Sampler of Henry VII.’s reign, 379-80.
Saracenicum, 240.
Satin, 161, 170;
of Bruges, 171.
Scarlet, 182, 187, 189.
School of Art Needlework, South Kensington, 219, 288, 392;
rise of, 396-7;
list of work executed at, 398;
designs for, 398.
Schools, branch of Art Needlework, 397.
Screens, 261, 287.
Sculptures, 4, 353.
Seam, 198.
Seres, 154, 160.
Seventh century work, 361-2.
Sewing, plain, 197.
Shells, 88, 124, 190.
Sicilian patterns, 111;
embroideries, 124;
textile designs, 162, 341;
silk manufactures, 168;
fabrics, 315;
ecclesiastical designs, 331.
Sicily, textile art in, 41, 307.
Si-ling-chi, Empress, inventor of unwinding the cocoon, 156.
Silk, origin of, 151;
first woven by Pamphile at Cos, 300 B.C., 152;
Roman and Chinese, 153, 160;
trade in, 153;
in cocoon, 153, 156;
wild silk in China, 154-5;
attire mentioned in Latin poets, 157;
silken robes sold by Marcus Aurelius, 158;
garments given by Emperor Carinus, 158;
edict of Diocletian, with prices of articles, 159;
silk mentioned by poets and historians from first to sixth century, 159;
silkworm, 159;
monopoly of silk manufactures in Constantinople, 159;
first allusion to use of silk in Christian Church, 160;
palls of silk brought from Rome, A.D. 685, 160;
Bede’s remains wrapped in silk, 160;
specimens of silk in Auberville’s “Tissus,” silk tissues called “Imperial,” 161.
Silk-weavers, Jewish, at Thebes in 1161, 161;
transported by Roger, King of Sicily, from Greece to Palermo, 161, 165;
description of Royal manufactory at Palermo, by Hugh Falcandus, twelfth century, 161;
three periods in Sicily, 162-3;
Saracenic, in India, 166-7;
Italian, in Lyons, 1450, 167, 169;
Spanish at Malaga and Almeria, 168;
in Hungary under Queen Gisela, 169;
in the Flemish towns, 170;
Asiatic, 170.
Smock of Mary Tudor, 385.
Society of Arts, Birmingham, 292.
Sofas, 285.
Spangles, 146.
Spanish Armada, hangings, 253.
Sphinx, 265.
Spinning, 357.
Stamford, Arras woven at, 256, 257.
Stitches, 194-259;
lists of, 196;
gold, 203;
mosaic, 204;
cushion, 204;
plumage, 207;
satin, 214;
sampler, 234;
ecclesiastical, 345;
stem, 214.
Stole, 308;
at Durham, 364;
of Aelfled, Queen of Edward II., 364.
Style, 14-53.
Sun-cross, Egyptian, 337.
Sunflower, 91;
radiated pattern of, 111.
Surcoat of Black Prince, 373.
Swastika, 103.
Symbolism, 59, 95, 98, 307, 333, 334-5, 352.
Symmetry, 63-4.
Table covers, 287.
Tanaquil, robes worked by, 129.
Tapestry, 235-259;
in British Museum, 236;
woven, 237;
of Charles, Duke of Burgundy, 243;
Gobelins, 237;
Arras, 238;
Saracenic, 240;
at Brussels, 245;
French, 245;
Italian, 245;
English, 248, 277;
revival of, at Windsor, 257;
in Cluny Museum, 277.
Taste, 52;
Oriental, 388.
Tau, 335.
Tent, funeral, of an Egyptian queen, 25, 215;
of Antar, 263;
of Nadir Shah, 263;
of Alexander, 264;
of Ptolemy Philadelphus, 264-5;
Persian, 265.
Textile art, 45, 59, 74, 77, 93, 104, 107, 174, 176, 187, 205, 307, 310.
Thebes, silk-weavers of, 161.
“Tissus” of Auberville, 160.
Titian, 178.
Toga, 338.
Tomb of Agamemnon, 19;
of Rameses, 20;
of warrior at Kuban, 129;
in Crimea, 130, 217;
Anglo-Saxon, 144;
of St. Cuthbert at Durham, 163.
Trabea, 309, 337.
Tree of Life, 336.
Triptych in Cluny Museum, 211;
at Zurich, 328.
Tyrian purple, 180, 289.
Ulysses, 281.
Vatican, Etruscan gold ornament, 21, 295, 300.
Veil of Temple, 22;
classical, 261, 265, 311, 312;
for pyx, 350;
of Hebrew sanctuary, 311, 351.
Velvet, 76, 345, 347;
stoles, 161, 172, 221;
pall, 378.
Venetian red, 289;
style, 306.
Vestments, 313, 326;
Italian, 329;
Spanish, 331;
modern, 343;
set presented to Romsey and Croyland by Canute, 366, 370;
set bequeathed to Westminster Abbey by Henry VII., 379.
Watteau, school of, 248.
Welby, Lady, founder of School of Art Needlework, South Kensington, 396.
Wiglaf, King, 362.
William and Mary, 393.
Wilton carpet works, 190.
Windsor, 257, 398.
Wool, 125, 127, 130;
Berlin, 395.
Worcester, dress in tomb of Walter de Cantilupe, 320;
cope of William of Blois, 322;
tomb of King John, 373.
Workhouse sheeting, 140.
Wroxton House, Arras at, 256.
York, Archbishop of, Arras with design of the Four Seasons, 255.
Zoroaster, 101.
