THE WALL GARDEN

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A wall garden is a perpendicular rock garden. But whereas a rock garden is of all things irregular, a wall garden has regularity. The wall need not be a straight line; it is better that one end should describe a curve, and rocks at the base may give it further irregularity. Yet it can never quite lose the air of man's handiwork. The prime object of the gardening on it is to reduce this air to a minimum.

The way to make a wall garden is to build a dry wall of rough stones—that is, a wall without mortar. Instead use soil and pack it tight in every crevice as well as behind the stones, which should be tilted back a little to carry water into the soil. This tilting may be accomplished with small stone wedges. The best kind is a five-foot retaining wall, as there is then a good body of soil behind to which the roots can reach out through the crevices. But a double-faced wall may be made, if the situation demands it, by constructing parallel lines of stones and filling in solidly with soil.

Although the face of the wall in either case may be strictly perpendicular, it is better that each layer should recede a bit. Construct it after the manner of the rock garden, laying the stones so that the top will be level, or approximately so.

Dry wall for retaining bank. Cross-section, showing crevices, soil runs and tilting of rocks Dry wall for retaining bank. Cross-section, showing crevices, soil runs and tilting of rocks

In planting also, follow the same rules. It is better to plant as the work progresses. Either plants or seed may be used. If it is seed, press carefully into the soil in the front of the crevices. Small seed may be mixed in thin mud and this plastered on the soil. For a tiny crevice make a pill of the mixture.

Double-faced dry wall. A few rocks are used with the soil filling and here and there one on top of it Double-faced dry wall. A few rocks are used with the soil filling and here and there one on top of it

The range of reliable plants that do not call for special care is not great so far as the crevices are concerned. All the stonecrops, the house leeks, Arabis albida, red valerian (Centranthus ruber), aubrietia, Alyssum saxatile, snapdragon, wallflower (Cheiranthus Cheiri), Kenilworth ivy, Viola tricolor, Dianthus plumarius, and Dianthus deltoides are all very serviceable. Behind the wall, at the top, a strip of earth should be left and there a wider variety of plants can be grown. Single Marguerite carnations and grass pinks will form a sort of cascade of foliage and bloom there if planted close to the wall or in the crevices of the top, and a similar effect, but much bolder, can be created with the perennial pea (Lathyrus latifolius).

If the dry wall is already made, the crevices can be plugged with soil if care and patience are used. Even a cemented wall is not hopeless; here and there the mortar can be chiseled out and an occasional small stone should be removed.

A wall garden has these advantages over a rock garden; it is more easily constructed, it is of practical use, and it is sometimes a possibility where the other is not.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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