The ancient name of this fortress was Edan-dubh-Cairrge, meaning “the front or brow of the black rock.”

It is situated near the village of Randalstown, about two miles and a quarter north-west of Antrim. The present demesne, which extends for two miles along the northern shore of Lough Neagh, is bisected by the river Main.

The castle has not been inhabited since it was burnt down on the 15th of May, 1816. A large addition was being erected at the time, and it as well as the older buildings were all consumed. Only the beautiful conservatory and the fortified terrace escaped uninjured. Several turrets and towers still stand to indicate its former extent and grandeur.

A passage about a hundred yards in length runs underground from the castle to the adjacent graveyard, and was the servants’ entrance to the mansion. Connected with this are great vaults which were built at the same time as the conservatory and the rooms near, so as to raise the addition above the level of the Lough, and give the building a better frontage.

An old safe is still to be seen in one of the castle walls, and not far from it a curious figure-head, supposed by

some to have been brought from the East and to belong to a much earlier date than the ruins among which it stands. Tradition states that when it falls the family of O’Neill will come to an end.

It is recorded that in 1490 Edan-dubh-Cairrge, the castle of Niale, the son of Con, son of Hugh Boy, was taken and demolished by Felim, grandson of Niale Boy. It is probable that the present ruins are the remains of a castle which was erected in the sixteenth century upon the site of an older fortress, though the exact date of building is uncertain.

Edenduffcarrick belonged to the O’Neills of Clandaboy, and a younger branch of the great Tyrone family.

They were descendants of Hugh O’Neill, surnamed buide or boy—yellow-haired, from which fact the district got its name.

In Queen Elizabeth’s reign Sir Brian MacPhelim O’Neill usurped the O’Neill estates with the help of the English, but they were shortly afterwards confiscated and bestowed by the Crown on Sir Thomas Smith.

In 1573 there is a memorandum by Secretary Smith offering to give up to the Earl of Essex upon certain conditions “Belfast, Massareen, Castle Mowbray alias Eden Doucarg (now Edenduffcarrick or Shane’s castle, in the county of Antrim) and Castle Toome.”

After the treacherous seizing and execution of Sir Brian in 1574 a fierce struggle for possession of Clandaboy began between his son Shane MacBrian and a cousin, Neal Oge. In 1583 Captain Thomas Norreys captured the castle of Edenduffcarrick from Hugh Oge and handed it over to Shane as Captain of Lower Clandaboy.

A writer about 1586, describing Antrim, states that Edenduffcarrig and Belfast were the only wardable castles at that time.

In 1588-89 Lower Clandaboy was divided between Shane M’Brian M’Felim O’Neill, and Neale M’Hue, son of Hue M’Felim. The latter was granted the castle with a fourth of the country and followers, but as he was unable to provide the pledges required for the safe delivery of the castle and the payment of rent, he was imprisoned in Dublin Castle until he could find them. In the meantime his men garrisoned Edenduffcarrick.

Shane M’Brian O’Neill endeavoured to get possession of North Clandaboy in 1591 for himself and his heirs, and the Government received warning that it would be best for them to keep Shane’s Castle in their own hands, especially as it could be used to guard the fisheries of Lough Neagh, where a “civil English plantation” might be formed.

The same year Shane and his cousin Neale agreed to submit to arbitration regarding the division of North Clandaboy. Commissioners were, therefore, appointed by the Lord Deputy, and Shane’s Castle was reserved to the Crown according to advice.

The Earl of Tyrone formed a camp near the castle in 1593-94, and the Sheriff of Antrim appealed to the Lord Deputy for a guard to be put in Edenduffcarrick, saying that otherwise the country was unprotected, and that it “is the only mark that these fellows shoot at.”

After this the castle seems to have been allowed to fall into decay, for in 1596 Mr. Francis Shane, discoursing about the rebellion in Ulster, states that upon the edge of Lough Neagh “standeth a ruinated pile called Edendowcarrick,” which being made wardable could be converted into a store for provisioning Blackwater and Coleraine in case of sea storms.

Later it was evidently taken possession of by Shane M’Brian O’Neill, who had joined with his great namesake and kinsman, the Earl of Tyrone, for in 1597 Sir John Chichester, with the help of Neale M’Haghe (the other claimant to Clandaboy) took the castle from him. It was a somewhat unexpected victory, as Sir John did not at first intend the capture. He had divided his forces into three companies of a hundred men each. One party he sent to seize some horses of the enemy, the second was detailed to harass the rebels, and the third, which he himself commanded, was intended to prevent a sally from the castle. The garrison did make an attempt to issue forth, and he presently came up “pell mell with them,” and entered the bawn.

After two assaults the English came so near that they set the building on fire. It was said to have contained large stores, and that its loss was a great bridle to the Earl of Tyrone.

After this the chieftains of both the Clandaboys laid down their arms and gave hostages.

The castle had not long been in Government hands when the warders, although well provisioned by the help of Shane M’Brian (now siding with the English), made a raid upon the country people, and carried off a number of horses.

Neill M’Hugh M’Phelim, having escaped from prison, took up the people’s cause and assaulted the castle. They broke the bawn and burned the door of the main keep, whereupon the garrison killed their prey in the cellar, and as it is reported, “by this wilful accident put the house in danger.”

A new door was ordered, and also a more plentiful stock of provisions for the garrison.

In 1598 Sir Hugh O’Neill resided at Edenduffcarrick, it having passed again out of the hands of the Government.

In 1607 King James I. finally settled the castle and estate upon the descendants of Shane MacBrian O’Neill. It is most likely that the present name of Shane’s Castle is derived from this man. Richard Dobbs uses this designation in 1683, so that the popular belief that the name was altered by French John who came into possession in 1716 is clearly erroneous. He was called “French” John because, being of a younger branch, he had made his own way in the world engaged in the wool trade abroad. When he came into possession of the estate he displayed in the castle hall the very wool-cards he had used in his poorer days to show he was not ashamed of his calling. It was he who built the family vault in the adjacent graveyard in 1722.

In 1798 the first Viscount O’Neill, who was then the family representative, rode into Antrim on the day of the battle of that town. He received a mortal wound from a pike in his side, and being conveyed by boat to Shane’s Castle, he lingered for a fortnight. It is supposed that it was at his wife’s instigation that he enlarged the castle demesne and removed the ancient village of Edenduffcarrick.

A most interesting note from Mrs. Siddon’s diary, mentioning her visit to the castle in 1783, is as follows:—

“When my Dublin engagement concluded I made a visit to Shane’s Castle, the magnificent residence of Mr. and Mrs. O’Neill. I have not words to describe the beauty and splendour of this enchanting place, which, I am sorry to say, has since been destroyed by a tremendous fire. Here were often assembled the talent, and rank, and beauty of Ireland. Among the persons of the Leinster family whom I met here was poor Lord Edward Fitzgerald, the most amiable, honourable, though misguided, youth I ever knew. The luxury of this establishment almost inspired the recollections of an Arabian Night’s entertainment. Six or eight carriages, with a numerous throng of lords and ladies on horseback, began the day by making excursions around this terrestrial paradise, returning home just in time to dress for dinner. The table was served with a profusion and elegance to which I have never seen anything comparable. The sideboards were decorated with adequate magnificence, on which appeared immense silver flagons containing claret. A fine band of musicians played during the whole of the repast. They were stationed in the corridors which led into a fine conservatory, where we plucked our dessert from numerous trees of the most exquisite fruits. The foot of the conservatory was washed by the waves of a superb lake, from which the cool and pleasant wind came to murmur in concert with the harmony from the corridor. The graces of the presiding genius, the lovely mistress of the mansion, seem to blend with the whole scene.”

The great fire already alluded to occurred in 1816, and is supposed to have originated in a chimney where jackdaws were building. It quickly spread to the drawing-room, and nothing was saved except the family papers and plate. A most valuable library and many pictures were destroyed.

The sky was crimson for miles round, and people flocked to all the adjacent hills to witness the magnificent sight.

The present family residence is about a quarter of a mile from the old castle. The owner, Lord O’Neill, is the 2nd Baron, the former title having become extinct in 1855.

“The Rockery,” formed from an ancient quarry and stocked with rare plants, is one of the attractions of the demesne.